SoDak Update
"SoDak was hydro locked when I tried to start it, so it seemed obvious that I was going to have to do something with the head gasket. Then I decided to check the head bolts for tightness. They were loose, but also felt crunchy when turning. After tweaking them, the leak stopped. So I decided to pull them out and clean up the threads in the block and properly tighten them. Well, this only worked for the first one. The second one came out all corroded and badly necked.I am still considering jumping into a valve job--I really should. But at this point, I think I will just put in new bolts, clean the threads, and see what happens. It is considerably more work to do a valve job, so I hope to avoid that for now. I will let you know how it goes"
STEW
posted by Mr. Winberg @ 2:03 PM
3 Comments:
What does a valve job have to do with a blown head gasket? You can remove the head, replace the gasket, and reinstall it without grinding the valves. I've never seen a D24T need a valve job, no matter how many miles it had. I'd be willing to bet a brand new stainless steel head gasket would stop the leaks, but the gasket that is on there is certainly ruined if it's leaking already.
Shouldn't the head bolts be changed every head gasket job? Torque to yield?
I recently tore down a Volvo gas engine that had ben hydrolocked. One connecting rod was broken and punched throuth the block. The other three were "S" shaped. The engine still ran well (on 3 cylinders). I suggest if the pistons don't come as high as they should the engine should be torn down to inspect the rods.
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