Ball Joints

Ball joints(4) are a piece of cake on the 740. I did my LF one today. All you need is the forementioned large prybar and a LARGE hammer and the appropriate sockets. I still have a front end clunk on turning, but I do still need to do a right tie rod end(1). Anyway, front suspension work on this car is very easy. Anyone can do it!

Air in Fuel Lines

I was concerned that I might be getting air in my fuel lines because of poor starting after sitting for ~8 hours. I decided to change the fuel filter to fuel pump line to clear tubing. This way, if air was being introduced at the filter or filter connection, I would be able to see bubbles. I also replaced the copper washers for a good seal. You can get these at a hardware store or just heat them with a propane torch for a minute and reuse.

I was attempting to keep the original fuel line intact, but could not find another large banjo fitting (the one on top of the fuel filter). The smaller fitting (on top of the pump) is the same as the one on the fuel rail of a 16v SAAB 900 from the late 80's/early 90's. Replacement black metric 8mmx1mm plastic fuel line(the plastic line between the fuel filter and fuel pump) can be found under the rear seat of the same year SAAB 900 and is very easy to get to and snip a couple of feet.

You will need a fuel line tool to install new fuel line properly. I can't for the life of me find one on the net so please be patient for a picture.

I have let the car sit for 24 hours and I tried starting it this morning. Starting is MUCH improved, but still a little rough. After talking with my friend Stew and perusing the VW diesel bulletin board, I found out that the pump shaft seal is under suction, not pressure, so air could be introduced here as well. I guess my next step is to replace that seal, available from Bosch.

It's now mid November and I still see no worsening of the problem with a drop in the ambient air temperature, another clue that hard start issues might be caused by the introduction of air in the fuel system.

Strut Rod Bushings

Today I had the day off because of a power outage at my school! First I went to U-Pull-R Auto parts to look for a used strut rod (7)as mine is slightly bent. I found one off an early 90's 740 Turbo. Alas, it's a different style than my '85, slightly longer. Bummer. Anyway, I needed a 15mm socket, a 22mm socket and a 6-point strange-looking socket borrowed from my friend Stew (God bless him) and I was in business. My front end's a mess. I replaced the strut rod bushings(5). They are a common issue with 740's. You need 4 of them. I still need to do a ball joint(4) and an outer tie rod end(1).

How do you diagnose front end problems? Simple! All you need is 2 tools once you have the car off the ground. A LARGE pry bar and a JUMBO slip-joint pliers. Pry on joints with the bar and compress joints with the pliers. Replace what's loose. Be careful not to rip rubber boots!

Some people use polyeurethane bushings. I haven't tried them.

See Radius Arm Bushing Replacement in the swedishbricks FAQ for more detailed instructions.

Nozzle Replacement

The part numbers for the D24T nozzles are as follows

• 0 434 250 092 is the Bosch number
• DNO SD 1930 is another number they go by
• 1328209-0 is the Volvo part number

Nozzles are easily replaced once you get the injectors out. You will need to have them calibrated tan opening pressure of 2205-2318 psi by someone with the Bosch diesel injector tester. Follow this link to find an authorized Bosch service center near you.

I am not sure about other nozzle part numbers. Please see the D24 Family Tree post for more info on nozzles, e.g. conical verses cylindrical orafices. BOSCH DNO SD 293 (0 433 250 103) is used in 4 and 5 cylinder models. If anyone has more info on nozzles, please post a comment!

740 TIC

Here is the engine compartment from a 9-series diesel showing the intercooler piping. Note the repositioning of the alternator.

What Will They do Next?

760 Turbodiesel Factory Manual Scans