Compression Revisited

Tested compression today again with a marginal gauge...
1-390psi
2-390psi
3- 370psi
4-390psi
5-390psi
6-390psi
Pretty good for 289,000 miles. The new gauge that I had bought was garbage. It. wouldn't hold pressure. Piece of garbage... Note: to do a compression test properly you need to remove all of the injectors.
I'll have to check the valve adjustment for #3 while I have everything apart.
I spent a good deal of time cleaning out the threads from cyl#5. Evidently I didn't have a good seal with the injector washer against the block. It was filled with carbon. It was a bear getting the injector out. I heard back from Diesel and Import service. My injectors are done and recalibrated. The spray pattern looked good so no new nozzles were necessary. $130. I gave them the go-ahead to do the injection pump. $550. Should be done next week.
A few part #'s
1257427- The rubber spacers that go underneath the injector line clamps
1328452- The short hose just towards th efirewall from the thermostat
9139507- The wax thermostat inside the cold start device (order it from Bosch if at all possible as it's almost $100 from Volvo)
The crank case breather (hose going from the top of the valve cover to the turbocharger) had rotted away and was dumping oil down onto the exhaust manifold. I ordered a new one from Volvo.

Volvo High Mileage Club

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Volvo High Mileage Club
P.O. Box 935
Langhorne, PA 19047-0935

More Tool stuff and Pump Shaft Seals

The Good:
The V5187 tool arrived today. Looks great. It's alot bigger than I thought it would be. I also got a bunch of paraphenalia from Baum on all of the wonderful tools they have (and a credit application). I got a lead on a pump gear holding tool that hopefully is a lot less expensive than the V5199, the AS4394. Baum carries all the standard pump timing tools. Lastly, they have a crank pulley wrench for 5-cyl VW/Audi that looks curiously like the Volvo tool...
www.baumtools.com
1-800-848-6657

The Bad
The pump shaft on my pump has too much play- will need new punp shaft bushings. :( The dude said that a new seal would work for a while, but then I'd be havin' the same problem. Now I need to decide whether to have the pump rebuilt... I need to take another look at the finances.

Overhaul

Today I pulled the injector pump and pulled all of the injectors. I sent the injectors to Diesel and Import Service to be calibrated. I am going to bring the pump up to them and have them replace the pump shaft seal. They quoted $25 labor + the seal, not bad and my time's worth more than that. I was contemplating a full pump rebuild, but $550 was a little too rich for me. I home the shaft seal takes care of things.

I spent alot of time on the phone with a very helpful chap at the Volvo dealership. They seem to have just about everything. They even had replacements for the little rubber spacers that go in the injector line clamps. They even had parts for a 1950's PV444 are available from the dealer. What service! I can't even get parts for my '78 Bus from the VW dealer :/

I ordered the crankshaft pulley tool V5187 below. Only $60!! The camshaft sprocket tool was $110. I don't need it THAT bad.

Next week I'll be doing a compression test! We'll see what I find. Whahoo!

Bad News Folks...

I have always known that after I let SoDak sit for a day, she starts up with a little cough and sputter. I am assuming that she is losing prime/pressure in the injection pump. I also am assuming that this problem will be fixed by replacing the pump shaft seal. Lately, the problem had been getting a bit more severe with it taking several minutes (as opposed to several seconds) for the sputtering issue to resolve and lower power at all speeds is evident. Depending on a simple test, I will be pulling the pump and replacing the shaft seal. I will replace the fuel return line with a clear hose to see if air is being introduced at the shaft seal. I currently have the fuel supply hose as a clear piece of tubing and no air is being introduced there. If this confirms my suspicions, While I have all the injector pipes off, I might as well...

1. Replace the injector nozzles and have the injectors recalibrated to the high side of their opening pressure
2. Do a compression test (I did one before, but this was before I adjusted the valves- you need to remove all of the injectors to do this properly)
3. Install Tygon fuel return lines (the little ones on the fuel injectors)

Comments

I'm curious who (if anyone!) visits this site... Would you be so kind as to post a comment on this entry. I really have no idea if anyone visits this lonely corner of cyberspace. Thanks!

Tools!

I have found some rather elusive D24/D24T tools. See previous post for more info.
The first tool holds the crankshaft pulley while you torque (supposedly) the crankshaft bolt to over 300 ft. lbs. I had though this tool was unavailable... The part number is V5187 and it's made by Baum Tool.

Second tool holds the camshaft sprocket at the front of the engine while you tighten the waterpump to adjust the cam timing (front) belt tension. Baum V5199

There aloso seem to be some other interesting tools that I have not seen, e.g. the pump shaft seal puller...
Here's the link
Happy Wrenching!

Fuel Pump Function

Here is some information for those who would like to know how the Bosch fuel pump works. Yes, I'm missing a page. I'll get to it when I have time.